EXPERT ADVICE

The success of any home painting project depends on preparation. All room surfaces should be prepped -- scrubbed, repaired and smoothed -- before they are painted. Plan to put in one to three hours of prep time for every hour spent painting.

Paint is a pigmented liquid that when applied to a surface becomes a bonded film, so preparing that surface is critical. We all want to jump in and start painting, thinking that we can complete a project in a weekend. Nearly 80 percent of a professional painter’s work is preparation—not application of paint. I know it sounds like drudgery and lots of work, but believe me: if you will set aside prep time a couple of nights before, you can easily paint a room in three hours.

With three children, I’ve tackled more than my share of crayon marks on the wall. The best way to remove these stains is to fold and old T-shirt into a pad of several layers thick and place it over a crayon mark, then set an iron at medium heat and run it over the pad. If that doesn’t remove the crayon mark entirely, heat the mark with a hair dryer and blot away as much as possible. Seal with two coats of white-pigmented, oil-based sealer, sanding lightly between coats.

For scribbles from permanent makers, lightly dab the spot with nail polish remover. Rub the area with a liquid de-glosser, such as Oops! or Goof Off. When dry, sand with 120-grit sandpaper, then wipe away the sanding dust. Seal with two coasts of white-pigmented, oil-based, sealer. Sand between coats

A clean wall is essential for proper paint adherence. First, dust off all surfaces with a vacuum cleaner or sweep with a clean dust mop. Set up two separate five-gallon buckets with two sponge head mops -- one for washing down the surfaces the other for rinsing off the dirt. Fill your cleaning bucket with three gallons of warm water. For each gallon of water add one-quarter cup TSP (trisodium phosphate). Mix well.

Using a sponge mop with a scrubbing head, wash the wall in eight-foot widths, from the button up, working around the room. When you reach your staring point, turn the mop head around and begin scrubbing the wall with the nylon scrubbing head (wet scrubbing).

After wet sanding the first 8-foot section, use the rinsing solution immediately to remove the dirt and the cleaner off the surfaces. Fill your rinsing bucket with three gallons of warm water. For every gallon of water add one cup of distilled white vinegar (a mild acid). Mix well. Using the rinse solution, wipe down with the second clean mop. Change the solution often. Allow the wall to dry for 24 hours before painting.

No! Toothpaste doesn’t hold up over time, and the color sparkles or bleaches can show through paint. Keep the toothpaste in the bathroom cabinet; use surfacing compound on the walls.

I’ve seen this happen in old and new houses alike: As the drywall settles, it develops noticeable cracks and open joints, especially at stress points. Movement can also cause nail heads to pop up.

To patch a small hole, such as a nail hole, use surfacing compound or drywall joint compound for drywall or plaster. Press the filler into the hole with a putty knife but don’t overfill. Several thin coats are better than a thick one. To patch dents and holes 1-4 inches across in plaster or drywall, put fiberglass-mesh reinforcing tape over the hole, then apply two coats of quick-drying plaster compound over the patch. Let the compound dry between coats. Sand lightly, coat and seal.

Need to repair a large hole? You deserve an award just for tackling the project! Large holes require a bit more patience and care to fix. Follow these directions and you’ll do fine.
    
1.  Measure the hole. Cut a piece of drywall large enough to cover it. Trace around the patch onto the wall, and with a drywall saw, cut out the marked area. If the patch is large enough to extend from one stud to another, cut an opening to the center of each stud so you’ll have nailing surfaces for the patch.
    
2. Cut one or more strips of plywood, 1X board or drywall scraps. They should be three to four inches longer than the hole. Slip them behind the opening.
    
3. Secure the strips to the wall with one-inch wallboard screws.
    
4. Apply strips of fiberglass mesh or moistened paper joint tape over the seams, overlapping the tape at the corners of the patch. Work a thin layer of joint compound into and over the tape, making horizontal and vertical sweeps. Let the patch dry overnight.
    
5. Sand level with 120-grit sandpaper. Skim a second coat of compound over the entire patch, feathering it out slightly farther than the first coat. Let the patch dry completely.
    
6. Sand with 120-grit sandpaper and seal with white-pigmented, oil-based, sealer.

Mold and mildew will drive you crazy.  Regardless of where you live, you may be plagued with it. Look for splotches on your walls. If you find some, dab them with a small amount of household bleach. If the spot comes off, it’s not dirt - it is mold or mildew.

To remove mold and mildew, mix one cup household cleaner and two cups hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of warm water. Wear gloves and goggles. Apply the solution with a sponge or mop and let it stand for several minutes. Several applications may be need. Rinse with a solution of one cup vinegar in one gallon of water.  When dry, lightly sand the places where the mildew appeared.  Seal against another outbreak by applying two coats of white-pigmented, oil-based sealer. Sand lightly between coats.